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The RRGCC

The PMRP

PMRP - Overview
PMRP - Maps
PMRP - Beta
PMRP - Financials
PMRP - Misc Info

PMRP - Overview

More than just a mysterious acronym, the PMRP (which actually stands for the Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve) is a 750-acre commitment to preserving climbing access indefinitely.


With access becoming increasingly threatened through the 1990s, the Coalition formed with the intent of doing what it took to permanently secure access to climbing in the Red River Gorge region. However, being on the East Coast, most of the climbing opportunities were available only on private property or Forest Service land. In 1996, the USFS enacted a bolting ban on its land, effectively ending the development of sport climbing in those areas. While working with the Forest Service to improve relations and explore the options, the Coalition was also working with private landowners to secure access to climbing and development. This proved, however, to be a touchy situation. As climbing increased in popularity, relations grew increasingly tense with landowners and their wishes to maintain their privacy and independence.


Early in this decade, with a little exploration, the potential for development, particularly sport climbing, was discovered in the Southern Region. The presence of oil companies in the area did not go unnoticed. As can be expected, when word spread about the quality of climbing along Bald Fork Road, conflicts arose between climbers and the oil companies. In particular, parking and road access occasionally became flash points for tense exchanges.


In 2004, when more than 700-acres* of prime climbing land came available to the market, the RRGCC moved quickly to seize the opportunity to secure access. Negotiating with the Murray family, the Coalition and the Murray's settled on a value of $325 per acre for the 700-acres of deeded land. To finance the purchase, the RRGCC worked out a owner-financed mortage of 8% a year for 10 years. With a few maintaince costs, the final yearly costs translate to nearly $30,000 per year (for a more detailed look, check out the PMRP Financials ta).


*Note - It wasn't until after the purchase that it was determined that actually 750-acres were deeded.


So What?!

Ok.. great. So what does this mean for you as a climber? Well, the easiest and most obvious answer is access. Access forever.


The longer, more involved answer is a bit more idealistic. By purchasing this land, the RRGCC is setting a precedent and is changing the way we have to think about access and the role they take in caring for and protecting it. Our access, like our climbing, is in our own hands.


And as fresh reminders of the need and gravity of this project, one needs look only as far as Pocket Wall, the Arena, Oil Crack Wall, portions of Military, Western Sky Bridge Ridge, Hen's Nest, and, most recently, Torrent Falls.


Losing crags hurts because it means letting go of more than just routes. It means losing the chance to challenge ourselves, the chance to spend a weekend with friends, the chance to make memories that will last for years. It means losing climbing.

We love climbing.


Protect what you love.