Where to Climb
Red River Climbing’s Online Guidebook: Ray did it right, so rather than do it again, we’ll just link you to his impressive, constantly updated online guidebook.
One of the most popular questions asked about the RRG is “Where can I top-rope?” Unfortunately, the Red doesn’t have many places to top-rope. If you are looking for top-roping, the best solution is typically to hire a local guide service.
If you’re looking to set out on your own, we’re happy to point you to a few of the more popular areas.
- Fortress Wall: a classic area that has a bit of everything, from 5.2 to 5.12d trad lines. Since it’s protected by a large overhang, this area gets very popular on rainy days. The one thing this wall doesn’t have is sport climbing. It’s located in the Northern Gorge Region.
- Muir Valley: a little something for everyone with more than 300 routes ranging from 5.1 to 5.14 and has a wide selection of sport and trad climbs. Muir is popular with first time visitors and the parking areas often fill up on the weekends. There is a $10 charge per car for parking. Please sign a Muir Valley waiver before visiting.
- The Motherlode: another classic destination that courts some of the strongest climbers. The Motherlode has nearly thirty 5.12s and more than a dozen 5.13s and a few 5.14s to boot. Known for its steepness and tests of endurance, the Motherlode is typically dry on rainy days. It’s located in the Southern Region.
- The PMRP: actually two pieces of property with more than 400 routes ranging from 5.5 to 5.14d, the hardest in the Red. The PMRP is owned by us, the RRGCC and climbers (like you), and we hope you treat it like your land – with respect. Some popular destinations are Drive-By Crag, Purgatory, Solar Collector, and the Dark Side. It’s located in the Southern Region. Please sign a RRGCC waiver before visiting.
- The MFRP: it’s one of the newest areas of development with over 400 routes from 5.3 to 5.14+. The MFRP is also climber owned by the RRGCC. Climbers (like you) are still working to improve the trails and there is continuous bolting on the property. Please respect any “red tags” that you find on the first bolt (note: they could be a different color). These tags indicate that the route is not finished and may not be safe so please do not climb it. Some of the early favorites are Secret Garden, Coopers Cove, and Fruit Wall. Please sign a RRGCC waiver before visiting.
- Roadside: this is one of the original climbing areas in the Red River Gorge. While climbers call it Roadside, it is actually part of the Graining Fork Nature Preserve. Climbing has been closed at this crag in the past; however, the owners have decided to open the area again provided that climbers obtain a permit. Please make sure you follow the rules to ensure this area stays open for all in the future. Suggested donation is $5 per person. It’s located in the Natural Bridge Region.
- Torrent Falls: another classic crag with an amazing 5.11 and 5.12 wall that stay dry in rain. The crag is now privately owned with limited access. To climb, make sure to register on the day you wish to climb. It is usually open on Monday, Wednesday, and Thursday. This crag has been closed in the past, so please be sure to respect and follow all rules. It’s located in the Natural Bridge Region.