Rocktoberfest 2015 Clinics
30 September 2015
Here are the clinics we’re offering at Rocktoberfest 2015! Pre-register at rrgcc.org/register to snag your spot!
Adv – Harder, Better, Faster – Dan Brayack
This clinic will be an informative discussion about training using the methods developed by the Anderson brothers in their book, The Rock Climber’s Training Manual. The target audience for this is any intermediate to advanced climber who has been climbing for 2+ years (or considers themselves a very serious climber.) 1. Why train for climbing? 2. What training program is right for me? 3. What intensity is appropriate for my level of fitness? 4. What is Phased Training and How do I perform the following training exercises: a. Endurance (ARC Training) b. Hangboarding (Strength) c. Campusing (Power) d. 4x4s / LBC (Power Endurance) — Dan Brayack has been climbing and training for climbing for 16 years. Using the Rock Climber’s Training Manual, he has went from very seriously not climbing 5.12- to very seriously not climbing mid range 5.13. Dan has a blog that has been chronicling his training and his accomplishments at: http://brayackmedia.blogspot.com/ and http://blog.trango.com/.
Beg – Footwork and Technique – Nick Duttle
Learn what it takes to achieve fluid movement to climb gracefully. Study the art of working with your feet effectively. Develop proper foot technique for slab climbing, edging, and crack climbing. — Nick has been climbing for 15 years, professionally for 11. He’s climbed to the top of the grade in sport and bouldering on all of America’s types of stone. He loves the Red River Gorge sandstone and its awesome climbing!
Beg – Learn to Lead – Andrew Gearing and Jen Sauer
Tired of the rope snagging on your partner’s draws as you unclip while following him/her up a line? Take your climbing skills to the next level and learn how to lead sport routes! Time will also be dedicated to cleaning anchors. Andrew and Jen have sent some of the Red’s hardest lines – both trad and sport – and they’re psyched to help you get going on your mission to take the sharp end!
Beg/Int – Intro to Trad – Shingo Ohkawa
Want to avoid the crowds at the Red on gorgeous Fall days? There are almost as many trad/mixed routes as sport routes here – learn to lead them! This course gives you the skills to start working through safely leading a traditional climb. — Shingo is a lifer, a prodigal dirt-bag … he is, however, completely obsessed with exploring the high places of the world; opening new routes in ranges near and far, from the Wasatch to the Karakoram. No place is too far, for the world’s still a big place and he’s got no time to lose!
Beg/Int – Multipitch Efficiency – Karsten Delap
This is your chance to learn muti-pitch systems with a focus on equipment, route-finding, belaying, safety, and speed. Multi-pitch systems can be incredibly complex, and the best way to refine your skills is to examine each part of the system by itself. In this course, we will do just this: look at every element of your system and help you to make it better. On this course, we do not climb a multi-pitch route, but use a ground school to practice the specific systems required to climb a multi-pitch route effectively. Once you have completed this course, you will be able to take the skills learned in this setting and apply them to long multi-pitch climbs. — Karsten Delap has climbed many 17,000-foot peaks and has climbed all over the world for work and play. He spends the spring working in the High Sierra and the rest of the year traveling the world working for Fox Mountain Guides, heading up their alpine programs. He successfully completed the Rock Guide Program in 2009, becoming the Southeast’s second AMGA Certified Rock Guide. In 2013, he gained the AMGA Alpine Guide Certification and was the first guide in the Southeast to achieve this certification. He has gotten himself and his clients out of countless jams and mastered the art of multi-pitch, and is the perfect instructor to teach you how to embark on your upcoming multi-pitch adventures!
Int – Sport and Redpointing – TBD
Climbing 5.9 and wanting to improve? This clinic will teach you how to move beyond the plateau. This course will explain the art of choosing a project, how to train for the project, how to safely catch a fall, and more!
Int – Warrior’s Way – Arno Ilgner and Madaleine Sorkin
Madaleine Sorkin will be running this clinic on behalf of Outdoor Research and La Sportiva this year. Being effective in climbing requires us to understand the consequences of our decisions and actions. In climbing the main consequence is falling. By understanding how to fall we diminish the chance of injury and allow us to focus attention effectively on climbing. Target student: This clinic is not for beginners. You must have at least 6 months of continuous climbing experience and know the basics knots, belaying, and be able to climb 5.9 without falling/hanging. We’ll do some discussion but the clinic will consist mostly of falling exercises. Equipment Needed: Harness, shoes, belay device, helmet. Plus draws and a rope (if you have them). — Arno Ilgner distinguished himself as a pioneering rock climber in the 1970s and ‘80s, when the top climbs were bold and dangerous first ascents. These personal exploits are the foundation for Ilgner’s unique physical and mental training program–The Warrior’s Way®
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